Citrus such as lemon or orange cuts through the richness of bluefish perfectly. In this preparation by private chef Rachel Vaughn of Martha’s Vineyard and Big Sky, Montana, bluefish is cooked directly on the grill. Oil grill well and rub with a raw potato to keep fish from sticking. Or use an enameled-steel grilling tray on top of the grill grates.

Serves 4

• 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
• 1 1/2 tablespoons shallots, minced
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
• 1 chipotle pepper (dried jalapeño pepper)
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 4 cups wood chips, soaked in water
• 2 bluefish fillets
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 orange, thinly sliced
• 1 lemon, thinly sliced
• Lemon juice
• Fennel fronds (tops of a fennel bulb)

1. In a small saucepan, sauté butter, shallots, and salt for a few minutes, until shallots are golden. Add orange juice, chipotle pepper, mustard, and maple syrup, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until thickened and reduced to about half a cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat, and add honey. Remove the chipotle, and strain the sauce.

2. While sauce is cooking, preheat the grill. Drain wood chips and wrap in two packages of tinfoil pricked with a fork in several spots. Oil the hot grill, and add wood-chip packages on top of grill grates and let them start to smoke.

3. Arrange fish skin-side down. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Lay orange and lemon slices on top. When chips are smoking, place fish on grill. Cover and grill for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the fish.

4. When fish is done, squeeze lemon juice over the top. Serve with fennel fronds, either as a base or chopped on top for garnish. Pass the orange sauce.